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- Action! - Boom! Nailed it! Ive seen some other people do this and I thought well, you know what, I dont know if thats me. And then I stumbled across a video on YouTube the other day and I was thinking I can do this. upbeat rock music - So this is a reaction video on a DIYer giving some tips and tricks on what they perceive is the correct method for stretching chain link fence. And then well add our input as a professional contractor that stretches miles and miles of chain link. And well see how thats differ and we can see what methods maybe hes got some great hacks maybe some hacks for doing things on the budget conscious method and then we can show you the tools that we use as professional contractors, and well provide some links to those down below and Ill talk a little bit about those so. And without further ado, lets get into this brought to you by Lifey Guy. Like the name too Lifey Guy. - Stretch a chain link fence you need to have three tools. The first tool you will need is a tension bar. Now this slides right in between inside of the chain link fence loops. The next thing youll need is something to attach to a tension bar. So this is like a fence stretcher bar. You can see kind of what it looks like. These three hooks go around your tension bar and then you will use some sort of like strap or clamp to wrap through here and pull this tight. Now if you do not want this- - Hes doing good so far. So that is a tension bar and I hear a lot of people refer to that bar hes talking about as a trust bar or something else like that. We have tension bars and we have trust rods. Trust rods are used primarily on commercial fences and theyre around rod. And that is for making your diagonal brace component on your bracing for commercial chain link fences. You dont see them in residential fences. And then the tool hes talking about is what we call a chain link rake. And so its got rake fingers to grab into the chain link. And the reason that you use the tension bar in conjunction with the rake is because if you use the rake without the tension bar you can actually distort the diamonds and itll pull a little harder on some of them and distort them and bend them out a little bit. So if you slide the tension bar in the wire and then hook the rake onto the tension bar thats already inserted into the wire, youll get a nice even pull all the way across and you wont distort your diamonds. Usually stretch even like a six foot tall fence with a rake thats only three feet tall and only has maybe three fingers. Probably a four-foot rake would be a little bit better but you can make do, if thats all you have, you can make do with a shorter rake. Just watch how tight you get it. - If you dont wanna spend about $30 at Menards to buy one of those metal fence stretchers you could do something similar to it using a two by four thats maybe three or four feet long. On one side you can put in hooks. Three hooks, one at the top, middle and bottom, sticking out kind of like my fingers sticking out like this. And then on this side of the two by four you could put an eye hook that screws into here and that would also do the trick. Yet another option is you could just convince your line- - Now what hes talking about is not a bad hack at all. I mean, if your budget and... We live in a small rural town in Wyoming and when you get ready to do your chain link fence you may or may not be able to find one of those chain theyre great. So what hes talking about is building one out of a two by four, and thats a completely viable option pretty budget conscious I would imagine you could build one for maybe 12 bucks or something like that. You know, youre going to need a couple bolt hooks or something like that, that you get from the lumberyard, and then just a short chunk of two by four which most people have those laying around their house so. - Convinced your linebacker NFL neighbor to pull it for you and just grab the tension bar and just run with it. That would probably also work. The next item you need is something like a fence stretcher clamp, kind of like this one or a come along or you could even use something like tow straps, you know? - So what hes holding up right there is a barbed wire stretcher. And while that may work, it would probably work pretty good Im guessing if you had the two by four because its square but if you had one of those rakes its not going to work as well. Its probably gonna be a little cumbersome to try and use, but in a pinch it would work. I like the idea of using ratchet straps, which he mentioned here and maybe hes gonna show us a piece of them but I like the idea of using a ratchet strap, even better. - You know? Something like, you know, something like this that you can kind of ratchet thatll get tighter and tighter That has a hook on one side. - So before I go outside- - Now I love that idea. - To demonstrate how to stretch a chain link fence, I want to make sure that you know, to be careful to not overstretch your chain link fence. Youre supposed to be able to squeeze one of the chain link fence diamonds, and have it give a little bit. - [Lifey Guy] Something like that tensions probably about right where theres a little bit of give, but not that much. - So if you look- - Two inch ratchet strap that hes talking about are readily available just about anywhere. The farm store sometimes have them super cheap. How much youre gonna have to adjust is gonna be dependent upon how much slack you have in your fence. So if youre stretching a hundred foot run of fence you may have to stretch on it a little bit, then let it off pull the slack out of it and then start all over again and ratchet it again. So just depends on how much youre pulling. Now, if you have a really short section a lot of times we see short sections next to gates and things like that. If you have a short section there are other tools that we use to do that. And then on our website we have things called bear holes, which would be one. And theyre just a tool that hooks onto your tension bar and locks around the post but its got a little bit of extension. So as you crank it around, it pulls the fence tight. And that works really well for short sections. Another tool that we use as professionals is called a pole jack and we sell those on our website. Theyre basically a long bar with a rod that goes through it. Kind of like a quick grip clamp. Like cause you crank them over, they pull everything together and make things tighter. So that works really well because some of these tools like the bear holds, you have to know exactly how long you want your chain link fence, because once you slide the tension bar in there and then you crank that bear hold over, you arent gonna be able to unweave a straw if its a little bit too long. On the pole jacks you can actually hook it on way further back, pull your fence tight and then have some slack wires here or some slack chain link. Just basically pull it to the tension that you want and then figure out which diamond to break. And then unweave one, put your tension bar in hook it all up and then have that loose slack to play with. So, two different ways of looking at it and having that loose slack definitely makes it a little bit easier to make up your fence and get all the bolts and the tension bands and things like that on, so. - If you look here, my fence is actually a little too tight probably one ratchet too tight. I dont know if you can see here, but it looks like this diamond might be a little bit wider than the rest. That mightve happened because I used a little bit too much tension. One thing to keep in mind is- - If he hooked that tensioner or his rake into that piece it could have distorted it just a little bit like that. Usually what we see is if you overstretch it the fence will actually start shrinking especially if you buy a really cheap, low grade fence which is what most of the big box stores will sell you is an 11 and a half gauge product. And some of them will even sell you a 12 and a half gauge product, which is really bad. But whatll happen is if you overstretch the fence will actually start to shrink and the diamonds will oblong. You usually dont get one diamond in the middle that oblongs. Its usually a whole series of diamonds that will start to stretch out. The other thing he doesnt talk about is if you overstretch your fence it makes it really hard to dress it out. If youve ever gone by a chain link fence and the top rail is all nice and flowing but the chain link looks like this thats because somebody didnt dress it out. And if you overstretch the wire then it makes it really difficult to grade that out and make that top of those diamonds look very uniform and flow with the top rail so that its all flowing. What we do in our company and the standard in the industry is to have the top diamond, have the middle of the top diamond lineup with the middle of your rail. So youve got about half a diamond sticking up above your top rail. When you go to build your fence, youll see that it especially if its galvanized after weaving it will not want to flow well, and youll have to work at it a little bit to kind of grade that out. We sell some tools on our website that also help people do that. Theyre called top rail dressers. And then we have a foot dresser. Cause sometimes you need to pull down on the wire and when we get to our really tall, heavy duty wires it can be tough. And so we use what we call a foot rake and you can stand on the wire it hooks into the wire and then you can stand on it and pull the wire down or push it down with your feet. - One thing to keep in mind is to always have your nice side of your fence the smooth side, and all the nice side of your bolts facing outward to your neighbors. Once you get the fence mesh rolled out- - I dont disagree with that at all. All of your bolts and everything, no matter what you do the chain link is gonna be on the outside of the pipe or on the outside of your yard. So the inside all the bolts point into your yard. One of the things that drive us professionals nuts is when we see people and theyll put some of the bolts pointing out, some of them pointing in. And I always tell my guys, if youre gonna do something wrong, at least be consistent at it. So if all of your bolts are wrong at least make them all wrong, but its better to have all your bolts pointing into your yard and make sure that everythings really good and uniform. - All, you know, 50 feet of it or so you want to stretch it by hand and pull it kind of nice and tight and nice and vertical flat up against the line posts. You then can take some wires and attach them to the top rail to help the fence hug the top rail. And these should not be right next to the line post cause youre going to be stretching the fence and if it moves too far you dont want it to hit the top rail cap on top of the line posts. Its important to note that when you are attaching a line post to your chain link mesh to use at least three wire ties to loop around your fence and to attach it to the line post at the top, middle and bottom. - Okay, so what hes saying there is, right. That would be absolutely 100% correct for a four-foot fence. The rule that we use in the standard specs in the industry for attaching your wire to your pipe is it needs to be 24 inches on center for your top rail. So every 24 inches you need to tie and then on your posts on the line posts, and then on your tension bar the tension bands need to be spaced at 15 inches apart. No greater than 15 inches apart. And that same rule applies to your post ties. So the post ties needed to be no greater than 15 inches apart. So if you want to build it like they require us to build it in the industry then its no more than 15 inch spacing on your ties for your posts and no more than two feet for your ties on your top rail. If youll notice in that video, one of the things you saw is Ive seen, a lot of people do this but theyll actually tie off their fence so that the top of the chain link is even with the top of the top rail. Now, if thats your preference, thats totally okay. But you need to think about that ahead of time because you may have to set your posts a little bit taller. And the industry what we do is we set our posts three inches lower than the height of the fabric. So if Im setting a 48 inch tall fence and its going over grass or dirt, then well set the or well mark our line posts and set them a minimum of 45 inches out off the ground. If theyre 46 inches off the ground I know my wires gonna be about an inch high. The terminal post will be four inches taller than the line posts. So the terminal posts would be four-foot-one. Thats the minimum they need to be out of the ground. Unless I want to start digging and trenching. - That gives you those three points to distribute all that tension thats built up between the prior post and your subsequent line post. If you dont do this, like say if you did the top and middle but not the bottom you can just imagine that it would lose all of that tension on the bottom And it would be all loose at the bottom and tight at the top. Now I stretched and assembled most of the fence last night. What I like to do is I like to go every other post. So I will go, Ill start at the second line post and stretch the fence and then attach it to the first line post. And then Ill go to the third line post and stretch it and then Ill attach it to the second line post. - So you can do that, but that adds a lot of extra work. What we do as professionals in the industry is well go and stretch an entire side. So the maximum run well stretch is probably 200 feet. We dont like to pull more than 200 feet just because of the friction on the ground and especially when we get some of the heavier commercial grade wires. We can start getting some distortion but what well do is well stretch 200 feet at a time and well pull that all the way to the end. So rather than stretching every other post which can add a lot of time to your project, you can go from... In most yards you can stretch the entire side. So from a gate post all the way to the corner from a corner post to another quarter post if there is no gate and that speeds you up tremendously just stretching that entire side rather than stretching every other post. Think about that and if youre using some mechanical devices to help you stretch it, then youre gonna have problems. If you are using your linebacker friend to help refine it then you may run into some troubles but for the price of a ratchet strap I think Id probably use a mechanical advantage to help me accomplish that tension. - But if you wanted to, you could honestly stretch, you know, from line posts, four or five down the row and stretch it and assemble multiple line posts at the same time. You want to have one extra tension bar than what you actually need. So that way you can use it for stretching but not run out of tension bars when you need to do the final stretch to secure it to the terminal post. Okay, lets go outside. - And what he said is 100% true. You will need that extra tension bar If you dont have one of these other items like a bear hold or a pole jack. Those are probably the two absolute most common tools. And if you have those tools lets say you have two pole jacks and two bear holds, you can stretch an entire backyard with those two tools alone and you wont even need a rake. And we sell those on our website. Thats what we use. If were gonna go into a backyard thats what were going to use. We dont use any of the rakes until we start getting into really long runs where we have to do things by hand. But the pole jacks are probably the number one tool we use for almost everything. Anytime were doing great, big long runs and were doing thousands and thousands of feet of chain link we have attachments that go on our skid-steers that are really speed up the process. But for your backyard a pole jack is, two pole jacks would do the job very well. - So most people recommend taking your tension wire and running it along the bottom in between the two terminal posts before you attach and stretch your fabric to your fence posts. But I didnt do that, So Im gonna actually have to weave this tension wire through the bottom in between the line posts. - Okay, as he was walking away, I can see a little bit of what Im talking about. I assume that hes already got this tied off. But you can see a little bit of that wave over the top rail if you look hard in his video, you can see some of that wave where he needs to just spend a couple minutes and just dress that out a little bit. It looks like hes got a pretty nice flow with his top rail but he could give it that real professional look if he took a minute and just dressed out that chain link to flow better with the top rail so you dont have those inconsistencies above it. Now, what hes saying about tension wire is a 100% true. And hes got what I assume is probably like a nine gauge smooth wire. And what we use a lot of in residential is a two strand twisted. Its basically a barbless wire that you get at your local farm store and well stretch that up post to post. And what that tension wire does at the bottom of the fence is it helps keep things from being able to push out because chain link has a lot of give. It doesnt have a lot of give in the center, but at the top and the bottom, it can have a lot of give. And since theres nothing down there to tie it to if you dont install the bottom rail, that tension wire you can hog ring that tension wire to your fabric and it makes it a lot harder to push that out for pets and stuff like that. If you have pests that youre really worried about the next best thing would be to add another bottom rail in between the line post, right at the bottom of the fence. And then the step below, beyond that, itd be to add a anti-dig barrier or concrete mow curb or something like that to help prevent pests from getting out. - And the fabric. And then you use the little hog ties, little pieces of metal wires to kind of secure this wire to the fence fabric. And that just kind of helps it to not deform. If someone kicks a soccer ball and it hits the bottom of the fence, or if a animal tries to climb underneath it makes it a little harder for them to do that. I apologize I dont have a lot of fencing to demonstrate right now but I do need to re-stretch the end here. Its a little too loose you can see when I squeeze it theres just too much give. - Back there, right when he was taking about too much give. He is a 100% right. I can see a whole lot of slack right there. But the other thing I noticed is this terminal post is sticking up a lot further than it needs to. Like I said, I mentioned before as our terminal posts we usually cut those four inches taller than our line posts. So we cut our line posts three inches shorter than the fabric height and then our terminal posts would be basically one inch taller than the fabric height. That changes a little bit if youre going to add barbed wire and do a commercial fence, but right now what were talking about is residential. - Im gonna bend this wire here at the top and kind of twist it to take this off. And then Im going to move the fence over about another inch. Im gonna stretch it and attach it just to add a little bit more tension. Cause this is a little bit too loosey goosey for my liking. Fliers and gloves can come in handy cause you have to bend lots of little pieces of metal. - We like to use whats called a linemans pliers or nines. Thats what we use. They also make a special fence plier, but we like just a standard electricians set of lineman pliers. And you can see how hes attaching his tension or running his tension bar through back behind so that he has all that slack wire. That makes it a ton easier to hook up or do your tie on. Now it looks like hes got about a three foot rake. The pole jack I was talking about works a lot like one of these only more purpose-built like say this what hes using that stretcher hes using it specifically for barbed wire. - So since this is the last stretch theres going to be a little bit more give because theres going to be the slack in between right here in the terminal posts. So it should be a little bit tighter on this side. So, the tightness combined with the slack of that side should make it about the right tightness. - Heres another thing to think about is if youre stretching a hundred feet and then you do have that little bit of chain link between your tension bar that youre stretching with and your posts youre never going to get that quite as tight. So that whole run of fence, if you stretch from corner to corner or end to end whatever your end points are you can absorb all that slack when you dont get it quite as tight there at the very end through the whole run of fence, instead of absorbing it between the terminal post and the next line post. So hes gonna have a really tough time with the tools he has right here to get that really tight. If he had a pole jack, a pole jack would do that because he could basically pull it by hand and figure out exactly where he needed to break his wire run his tension bar right through the end of the chain link then stretch right to that and hed be able to get that tight. But with the tools he has here, its gonna be very difficult. So Ill be interested to see if hes able to pull it off. - This tension bar, here we go. - And you can see hes got his tension bar back off the looks like hes got it back off the terminal post a little bit. - Some tension bars have a little hole at the bottom some dont. If yours does, what you can do is you can bend this open, this bottom loop and then you can kind of use it to kind of make sure tension bar wont slip down. Time to put this- - You can do that when you get into the commercial and industrial world. Our tension bars arent usually built like that. And so what we ended up doing with that little tail, thats just kind of running wild. Well trim that off. Its one of those details that gets overlooked and we think is the mark of a true professional is just trimming that tail off and then re-knuckling that over so that it looks professional. But hes right, that is to help you so that that tension bar cant slide down. That does get to be a little bit of a pain. - Tension bands back on and hopefully this is tight enough. And tighten the nut on before it... Ouch! Squeeze. - What hes hooking onto the tension bar are called tension bands. And theres a difference between the tension band and the brace band, and if you need help with that, we have another video so that you know the difference between the two. - Mesh is a little too close to the ground, and not quite up to the bar so now Ive got to loosen it and then kind of drag everything up. Okay, so I just kind of repositioned these up to be a little higher. So that way the very top of the chain link would be kind of right where I want it just above the bar. Now Im gonna go ahead and loosen up this clamp by shaking it, give it a little shake. Woo! and see how the tension is now. - If you just hit that handle over Itll just pop right up You just knock that handle forward And itll releases that dog. - Oh yeah. Thats what I like. Just a little bit of give, but not that much. Now I can take this down. Can take this extra attention bar out. - Probably a touch loose for my liking but he did a pretty decent job getting the slack out for what he had. - The tension wire, Im gonna have to loop it in between the mesh and the line posts. - And thats gonna be a pain. Definitely install your tension wire before you stretch up all your fence. That needs to be... The fabric going on needs to be the last thing you do. Now, one of the other things I cant tell right now but if you think about chain link fence its actually three dimensional. So the way its weaved, because you can slide your bar down through that slot between my fingers, you always want to tie it to the wire that is closest. Therell be a wire thats close to your rails and your post and then theres gonna be one thats away from it. You dont wanna tie your wires onto the wire that is furthest away. If you think about that being a three-dimensional product you dont want to tie your wires onto the wire that is not resting right up against your metal post or your top rail. - And that will now pull it nice and tight. Ive got this little clamp tool that I can use to kind of tighten the tension wire. And then we use the little hog tie clips to clip the wire to the fence mesh, you know, every half foot or every foot. When youre stretching fence sometimes youll see imperfections, but usually if you just take things slow and you try to be consistent at consistent heights and you know, make consistent tension, usually when youre done you get something thats pretty beautiful like this. And its just so rewarding to do a fence. Its fun. - All right, so that wasnt too bad. I think that he could have had some tools that would have made the job easier, but I think for what he had he made do with the best that he had and what he was able to find locally. I think maybe the strap would have served him a little bit better with his rake rather than using the barbed wire stretcher. He didnt really talk about how he stretched up his tension wire. And I would imagine that that probably proved a little bit cumbersome for him. We have a thing thats called a T-bar stretcher and we just make em in our shop. And well put a link to one down below. What youll run into on chain link fences with the tension wire and also your barbed wire is youll end up with a lot of really short runs. And no matter how hard you try with all the mechanical devices like the stretcher he was using, and some of the other stretchers that are available on the market is theres always gonna be that slack and you just cant ever get it tight. But you can use T-bar stretcher which is a tool you can easily make up with a drill bit and a little bit of metal, and it will get your tension wire and your barbed wire tight every time. And maybe sometime, I guess if theres interest well show you how to use one. But thats the easiest way to get all your tension wire tight on your backyard. If you really get into commercial fencing then you have seven gauge tension wire. And let me tell you that stuff, its a brute. Thats a carpal tunnel causer is what that is. And then we use nine gauge steel hog rings on commercial fence. But the hog rings hes probably gonna use on this are gonna be 12 and a half gauge steel. And so theyre pretty easy to bend. Dont get the nine gauge if youre just doing a backyard theres no need to just make sure you place those every two feet just like your top rail ties. Spacing needs to be every two feet so, if your posts are ten feet apart you need basically five in between your posts. So thats a couple of things, I liked the way he did it I liked the way he tackled the project and well he could have done some things a little bit easier and saved himself some time. Not a bad job for a guy that doesnt do this for a living. So if you are interested in doing it yourself we can sell you at SWi. We have all the tools available at swifence.com. And if youre in the Wyoming market, were happy to help you with all your materials and provide you a tips and tricks that may make your project go a little bit simpler whether its chain link, Cedar or any type of fence. So, until next time, you have good dang day. There you go. You know what to do? Yeah, We cant see you. See, youre not on the monitor right there. There you go. Dont get your fingers in the way! laughs Come on, hurry we dont have all day! - Wait! laughs - Its up. Look at the lens right there! If its not up here, then its not in the shot! laughs - Scene one, take one, action! clapperboard claps - Boom! Nailed it! Theres a lot of good and bad fence building advice floating around on YouTube. Today were examining a DIY chain link stretching video and seeing how it holds up against professional fence contracting techniques. What is he getting right and what is he getting wrong?Want the Puljak we talked about? Pick it up here: Hold: Top Rail Dresser: Chain Link Rake: Other Chain Link Tools: Pick up chain link hardware here: Lifey Guys original video here: mL10Elt0WQs Check out Lifey Guys channel here:
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